Vichyssoise

In 1917, the executive chef at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in New York
City introduced a cold soup called crème vichyssoise glacée to the
menu in the hotel's rooftop garden (shown here in 1918).
The soup, which was an immediate success, is now a classic.
[photo from Art and Picture Collection, The New York Public Library]

Back in the 1890s, a little boy named Louis Diat became so fascinated by the goings-on in his family's kitchen in Monmarault, France, that eventually he was allowed to cook the peasant-style soup the family had every morning for breakfast. Even though this meant getting up at 5 a.m., Louis was determined, because he wanted to be a chef.

By the age of 14, Diat was an apprentice, and at 18, having "graduated" to Paris hotel kitchens, he landed the job of chef potager (soup chef) at the Hôtel Ritz. When the hotelier César Ritz opened a Ritz in New York in 1910, Diat was asked to head the kitchen.

During Diat's 40-year reign at the New York Ritz-Carlton, he created hundreds of dishes, often naming them for favorite customers or public figures. Most of his creations have long since disappeared (ever heard of Chicken Sauté Gloria Swanson or Peach Mary Pickford?), but one remains: vichyssoise. Diat created this chilled potato and leek soup in honor of his mother and named it for the spa at Vichy, near his hometown. According to Diat, his mother used to make a soup of pureed leeks and potatoes that she served hot. But in the summer, he and his brother would stir cold milk into it to cool it off—and that was the memory that inspired him to create this luscious dish. He made some adjustments to appeal to the Ritz's upscale patrons (he strained the soup twice to make it silky smooth) and it was an instant hit.

Vichyssoise

Makes 8 servings
Louis Diat's original recipe calls for 2 cups of whole milk, 2 cups of medium cream, and 1 cup of heavy cream! Since this is too rich for most modern palates, we've substituted whole milk for medium cream and half-and-half for the heavy cream. Not to worry though, it still tastes luxe.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large leeks, white part only, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
4 cups water or chicken broth
2 teaspoons salt
4 cups whole milk
1 cup half-and-half
Minced chives, for garnish

1. In a large saucepan, heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the potatoes, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, partially cover, and cook until the potatoes are very soft, 35 to 40 minutes.
3. Transfer to a food processor or blender, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth.
4. Return to the saucepan, add the milk, and bring to a boil over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. (At this point, Diat says to "rub through a very fine strainer." This will result in the classic, very smooth soup. If you choose to skip this step, you will have a delicious potato soup.) Refrigerate until cold.
5. Stir the half-and-half and taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Chill thoroughly before serving. Garnish with chives.

Sweet Potato–Tarragon Vichyssoise: Use 1 pound white potatoes and 1 pound sweet potatoes. Add 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon or 2 teaspoons dried in step 4.

[This article first appeared in the July/August 2007 issue of Hallmark Magazine.]