Mock Apple Pie

Crackers were used in earlier centuries to make "apple" pies when apples were either scarce, super expensive, or nonexistent.

In fact, in 18th- and 19th-century cookbooks, crackers were used in lots of desserts. They were the basis for numerous baked puddings and were even used as a thickener instead of eggs in pumpkin pie.

Then along came the Ritz cracker in 1934. What set the Ritz cracker apart at the time was that it was round and buttery instead of square and austere. Three years after its introduction, it was the largest selling cracker in the world. (Wish we could still buy them at 1935 prices: 19 cents for a 1-pound box.)

Because using crackers in desserts was an American tradition of long standing, Nabisco began putting a recipe for a cracker pie on the Ritz cracker box, and this century's version of a mock apple pie was born.

Now, here's the thing. I tested the official mock apple pie recipe three times, and each time I got a filling that was gelatinous and solid and didn't look at all like apple slices. It finally dawned on me that perhaps I needed to increase the number of crackers in proportion to the sugar-lemon syrup that softens them. Perhaps the size of Ritz crackers had changed over the years and the original recipe had never been adjusted. I tested it with more crackers and finally got something that both tasted and looked like apple pie.

Several phone calls to Nabisco to ask them if their cracker size had changed since the 1930s were fruitless (get it?), because they insisted that the cracker size is the same and the recipe still works. I would say if you have any interest in the experiment, you can run down the original recipe from the Ritz cracker box. However, if you don't want to waste ingredients, I would try my version.

Mock Apple Pie
Makes 10 servings
If you're concerned about the calorie count of a pie made with crackers, consider this: A serving of bread pudding (similar concept) has about 475 calories, and a slice of frosted cake (the same fundamental ingredients) can top 600 calories; a slice of this mock apple pie, however, has under 250.

3/4 cup water
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons butter, cut into bits
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
Pastry for two 9-inch crusts, store-bought or homemade
45 Ritz Crackers (5 ounces), broken in half

1. In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar and cream of tartar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce to a high simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and butter, stirring until the butter is melted. Sprinkle in the cinnamon and stir well. Let cool to warm (about 30 minutes).
2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F. Roll out the bottom crust and fit into a 9-inch pie plate.
3. Place the crackers in the crust and pour the warm lemon syrup over them (make sure they are all well doused because you want all the crackers to absorb the syrup). Roll out the top crust and place over the pie. Trim the edges and seal. Put three or four slits in the top of the crust to let steam escape.
4. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust is crisp and golden. Let cool completely on a wire rack before serving.

Almond-Cream Cracker Pie: Omit the lemon juice, butter, and cinnamon. Stir 1/3 cup sour cream and 1/4 teaspoon almond extract into the sugar syrup once it has cooled to warm.

Butterscotch Cracker Pie: Use brown sugar instead of white sugar. Omit the cinnamon and lemon juice. Stir 1 teaspoon vanilla and 2 tablespoons bourbon into the sugar syrup when you stir in the butter.